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Post by scootergirl on May 7, 2014 15:11:04 GMT -5
Has anybody here set their trailer up to be wired so that you can run an AC off a generator? Trying to figure out what we'd need….maybe a 30 amp inlet with a small breaker box? Not planning on adding a bunch of lights or other things…the AC is the biggie. The trailer did not come prewired for AC. So far we only have a roof vent.
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Post by Admin on May 8, 2014 8:47:25 GMT -5
You would definitely want an RV style inlet box mounted outside so you could plug into your generator or into campsite power if you happen to be where there is a hookup. I don't think you would need more than 30 amps. Wire it to a small breaker box and go from there. Seal up where the wire goes through the body of the trailer real well. Actually seal all the crack and crevices real well to keep bugs out when you are sleeping. Are you going to finish off the inside? Insulate it to help the a/c out on a hot day. Most rv centers or Home Depot would have all the pieces you need.
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Post by scootergirl on May 11, 2014 21:13:26 GMT -5
I've been looking at insulation at Lowe's and Home Depot. Someone had told me to get the sheets of foam with the blue backing, but I don't see any with blue. I know in a house, by code, you have to have a "vapor barrier"… but I don't understand what a vapor barrier really is or if it would be beneficial to insulating the trailer. And some of the sheets of foam have off numbers on them I don't yet understand. But I plan to start by doing the ceiling. The walls are not accessible without taking down the plywood that is in there already, so I may try a section and see how that goes. I know doing the sides would help as well. In cold climes, people with snowmobile trailers have been known to toss extra "insulation blankets" over the tops of their trailers, too…as hot as it can get here, I may wish we had one of those, too, lol.
As to wiring, I know some people use a "transfer switch" when they wire their trailers, but I'm not sure if we need one yet or not. If I'm understanding it correctly, I would need one to switch from generator power to campground (or a power at home or whatever). I've been sidelined with a dental issue the last few days (neither of 2 dentists could detect a problem but they gave me drugs to see if they can make it go away…or maybe they just wanted me to go away, I don't know), so I haven't gotten any further yet in getting materials. I was hoping that since we had to sit out the race this weekend maybe we could get some of the insulation in the ceiling started.
I did order a rear canvas that I hope will work. It's intended, I think, for the rear door of toy haulers, but the seller says they think it will work with our 7 foot wide trailer. We'll see. It's a zippered door cover type thing that allows you to have screen windows open or closed, and to use a zippered door opening, while leaving your ramp down.
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Post by mundy on May 20, 2014 9:45:49 GMT -5
Vapor barrier is installed between conditioned space and exterior walls, prevents moisture build up. If using foam insulation in a trailer, I wouldn't worry about it. I found all the parts i needed @ Lowes(but I get 10% off) for electrical. Waterproof boxes, certain plugs for providing power from outside source, and ran 2 seperate circuits thru a small breaker box for next to nothing. The most important thing when wiring a trailer is protecting the wire when in contact with metal framing! You don't want it to rub thru and energize the whole trailer! Basic switches, lights and plugs can be run with 14/3. Spend a little extra for GFI plugs. If you get stuck, give me a call.
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Post by scootergirl on May 20, 2014 23:19:02 GMT -5
OK, thank you!!
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Post by scootergirl on Apr 29, 2015 22:25:15 GMT -5
I see I never added a picture...This is what we eventually ended up with...
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